The film The Royal Tenenbaums is set in a not unusual fairytale
version of Manhattan. It’s always slightly worn, incredibly romantic,
(yet substantive), and gorgeous in a true sense. Awe and lightness
enlarge by the wonder of it all and it just overwhelms. Wes Anderson
and Woody Allen create this magical place so convincingly, who among
us can say that they’ve never searched for, nay, *ahem* moved to the
city on the belief it existed, or at least looked for some piece of
it?
Given up on that mythical, magical Manhattan after too many Dog Day
Afternoons? Not yet! For a $2.00 metrocard, you can ride the A train
to a Manhattan full of art, culture, history, mellowness (!), and
natural beauty that will amaze even the most jaded part of yourself.
The fictional Tenenbaums frequent the fictional 375th Street YMCA,
bringing a new meaning to “uptown”. Indeed the city does go to 220th
street, and just short of that you can find a sort of fairytale
version of NYC, especially during this time of year.
Get off the A train at the 181st Street stop and you are in the
neighborhood of Washington Heights, still on the island, but eons away
from your worries and stress. This is an actual, complex and (gasp!)
friendly neighborhood. The subway stop is the deepest in the city, so
you will get a great glute workout as you emerge. If you want to
explore the neighborhood a bit first, walk down to the Audubon
Ballroom at 165th Street on the east side of Broadway (you can also
exit the A at the 168th Street stop to do this directly), this
ballroom, which has been used as a movie theater, vaudeville stage and
synagogue, was built by the man who founded 20th Century Fox and is
fantastical in its design even if only the façade is left, it’s also
the site where Malcolm X was assassinated. Inside is a life size
statue of Malcolm X as well as interesting video installations about
his life and impact. Exiting the building, wind your way uptown,
taking in the neighborhood, back towards 181st street. The George
Washington Bridge comes into majestic view. The bridge was called “the
most beautiful in the world” by Le Corbusier, it connects Manhattan to
New Jersey, and if it’s good enough for Le Corbusier, it’s good enough
for you, right?
Your next stop is food, peek into a Russian grocery store for homemade
salads, cheese, authentic Russian sweets and a variety of Eastern Bloc
beer, From Russia With Love on 181st Street at Fort Washington Avenue.
If you are in the neighborhood during breakfast, you can walk a few
blocks up, (take the route up Cabrini Avenue to maximize the wow
factor on the view of the George Washington Bridge and lush Hudson
River). When you get to 187th Street, take a right and you’ll be at
Gideon’s Bakery, where most selections are pavre and delicious. The
custard Danish can’t be beat, and they also offer yummy chocolate
donuts, and a wide variety of other breakfast pastries as well as
coffee, and of course, old time laid back charm. Now that you’ve got
some food, head towards the park to relax and take in your treats and
the wonder of the natural world.
On your way towards the park, stop into the Saint Francis X Cabrini
Shrine on Fort Washington Avenue at 190th Street. Cabrini was the
first American (naturalized from Italy) to become a saint and is
considered the patronress of immigrants. When she saw the views from
here, she persuaded the church to buy property and founded her
headquarters here. If it’s good enough for a saint, it’s good enough
for you, right? In true Catholic traditional fascination with the
sacred and the profane (it’s okay, it’s okay, I am one…) some of her
actual remains are entombed in a glass coffin beneath the altar in the
chapel of the Shrine. A two day celebration of her birthday begins on
July 15 every year, you might time your visit accordingly. On summer
weekends, there are also lively street festivals in the neighborhood;
I recently enjoyed both a snow cone and cotton candy (the joys of free
will as an adult!) although there are treats and music reflecting the
presence of its Dominican descended citizens as well.
Continue your journey up to 192nd Street and into Fort Tryon Park.
Yeah, catch your breath. It’s gorgeous. Originally settled by Native
Americans, George Washington and his troops played out part of the
early history of America here and it later became the summer retreat
for wealthy new Yorkers, Rockefellers included. Now it’s a sprawling
natural wonderland. And if it’s good enough for George Washington and
the Rockefellers, it’s good enough for you, right? You get the idea.
The entrance to the park begins with an incredibly colorful and
beautiful flower garden called the “Heather Garden” with a path
winding through it and many fluttering white butterflies who will
flirt all around you as you stroll past. The breezes here are
literally perfumed by the many blooms. Keep walking to enter the
overflowing greenness of the park and one of the many stone paths. Set
up on a bench or one of the rolling lawns and enjoy your snacks, the
butterflies, blooming flowers and green bursting out everywhere. The
park is almost never populated, and a feeling of crowding here is
impossible, even on weekends. The views of the bridge and the water
are tremendous and the park is home to many animals, including bald
eagles, who hang out up the hill near the Cloisters. Beginning on June
27 and every Wednesday through August 29, a free outdoor yoga class
(just bring your own mat or towel) will be held on Abby’s Lawn just
down from the Heather Garden from 7:15-8:30pm and is free.
Continue strolling and follow the signs towards the Cloisters,
situated on top of the hill, and a part of the Met comprised of real
medieval cloisters and dedicated to art and architecture of the middle
ages. If you haven’t already paid admission to the Met that day and
just want a peek, head inside down the hushed stone hallways of the
middle ages and into the gift shop, where you can peek out into the
impressive arched lobby and see glimpse of the garden, or pay the
admission to see the entire museum. Events are being held throughout
the summer on the Cloisters continued theme of religion and the middle
ages, click here for info
You can continue strolling past the Cloisters as the park stretches on
and becomes more hushed and hilly and even more quiet. As you wind
your way back, you can stop into the New Leaf Café, a pleasant
restaurant tucked into the park and housed in an old stone house,
serving gourmet food, wines and live jazz on Thursday and Friday
evenings. Who said Wes and Woody had Manhattan magic cornered? Now,
time for Happily Ever After, hop back on the A train and get back to
reality!
